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About Pro HVAC Service
If you have a question that we don’t answer here, give us a call at (844) 768-5995.
Where are you located?
Depending on what type of HVAC service you need, Pro HVAC Service Providers could be just around the corner! We have hundreds of local HVAC Contractors in our network throughout the United States that can help you with any service we offer.
You can search for a local provided by zip code, city, state or your address. To get started, just fill out the form to the right. Within minutes, you will receive customized quotes from a local contractor in your area.
Our corporate headquarters, are located in West Denver at 777 S Wadsworth Blvd #3-250, Lakewood, CO 80226.
What’s the best way to contact you?
Pro HVAC Service has several different ways to get a hold of us for pricing, quotes, concerns, information, and more.
If you’re looking for a quote on heating or cooling services, maintenance, or replacement fill out the form at the right.
Otherwise, you give us a call toll-free at (844) 769-5995, or send us an email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Our normal business hours are Monday – Friday from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM Mountain Standard Time (MST).
Our headquarters is located in West Denver:
Pro HVAC Service
777 S Wadsworth Blvd #3-250
Lakewood, CO 80226.
You can also reach us via any of our social media channels- just click the channel you’re looking for in the upper-right corner!
How much lead-time do you need to schedule service?
The lead time for any HVAC project varies depending on multiple variables and factors, including the type of service you’re requesting, the size of your project, and where you’re located.
Usually, once you have selected a provider in your area, they can be at your location within 48 hours- but we can also arrange service the following business day.
General Information on HVAC Systems & Services
If you have a question that we don’t answer here, give us a call at (844) 768-5995.
Q. How much does a replacement HVAC system cost?
There are several factors that need to be considered to determine the cost of a replacement HVAC System, including the makes you select, the models that are required, and what you need or want for your replacement HVAC System
To get to the true cost of a new system for your home or business, we recommend a complete in-house evaluation of your existing equipment. This will help us determine if there might be any additional costs (labor, electrical, ducting, etc) that might not be included in a quote for the system itself.
Q. What things should I consider when I'm looking for a new heater, heat pump or air conditioner?
If you know you need to replace your heater, air conditioning, or heat pump, use these guidelines to help you in your search:
- Choose a manufacturer that has a good track record for quality and durability- make sure that you’ll be able to find replacement filters, parts and contractors who service the unit easily.
- Make sure to consider the efficiency rating when selecting a new unit- a high-efficient hvac system will cool and heat your house better, and help ensure your energy bills stay in check.
- Always confirm that you’re selecting the correct equipment size and system for your home- a system that’s too large or too small will cause unnecessary wear and tear and more frequent service calls.
- Do your homework- just because a unit is on sale doesn’t mean it’s the best fit for your needs. Research the product(s) online, ask a reputable HVAC contractor, or contact the manufacturer for more product information.
- The most important thing is to select an HVAC contractor that has a good reputation for quality installations, good customer service, and is willing and able to help you service your unit for years to come. Talk to family friends and neighbors, and be sure to visit their website, the Better Business Bureau and other review sites.
Q. Why are humidifiers used more in heating than cooling?
Most households find that the most comfortable relative humidity (the amount of humidity you prefer) between 30% and 35%. Cool outdoor air dries out as it warms up when it enters a home, causing static electricity buildup and sinus problems. Using a humidifier will help mitigate these problems in winter months.
There are other factors in how humid your home is, including:
- How tight your window and door seals are
- How often you open and close your doors
- The type and size of humidifier you have
Q. Should I be concerned about carbon monoxide in my home?
Absolutely- carbon monoxide (CO) is odorless, colorless, and tasteless- just a small trace of CO impairs your brain function and could impact your health. How does your HVAC system contribute to the development of CO? Cracks, leaks, obstructions or any other type of malfunction in your heating system can cause carbon monoxide to accumulate.
Short-term exposure to carbon monoxide usually results in flu-like symptoms, including:
- Fatigue and more
Long-term exposure can eventually lead to unconsciousness or death.
Use these tips to help reduce the chance of Carbon Monoxide in your home:
- Schedule an annual inspection and budget for regular maintenance on your heating equipment to detect any problems and ensure CO isn’t building up in your system.
- Check regularly for any obstruction in your vents, chimney or furnace- birds, and squirrels are notorious for building nests that cause clogs and eliminate ventilation.
- Purchase and install a carbon monoxide detector
- Every so often, be sure to open up your windows to vacate any carbon monoxide buildup and add some oxygen-rich air into your house.
- The flame from the pilot light on older gas stoves and heaters should be at least 80 percent blue. If it’s mostly yellow, it might be producing carbon monoxide- and you should have it checked out by an HVAC contractor as soon as possible. Any gas system should be checked out and maintained at least once a year.
The good news is that modern HVAC systems burn much cleaner, and usually eliminate the risk of carbon monoxide affecting your family.
Q.What is the most effective way to control costs related to my heating and a/c unit(s)?
There are dozens of ways to ensure you’re maximizing the efficiency of your HVAC systems and minimizing your energy output and maintenance costs. Here’s a few things to look out for:
- Make sure to maintain and adjust your HVAC system on a regular basis.
- You can also make simple changes to your clothing, appliances and activites in your home- try to find ways to eliminate the need for your heater or a/c. This could be as simple as putting on a sweatshirt instead of cranking up the heat a few degrees in the winter.
- Modern HVAC systems also offer several ways to save energy for new installations, replacements or current systems, from thermostats and humidifiers to managing your household with zoning controls.
- A long-term strategy could be to plant trees and other shade-producing outdoor landscape- shading windows and the sides of your house in any season can eliminate a significant amount of radiant heat that can increase the temperature of your home dramatically.
- Then there’s the tried-and-true method of traditional household HVAC maintenance- add insulation to your walls and in your attic, install weather stripping on your doors, and plug air leaks to increase the seal of your home and minimize the chance that heat or cool air can escape.
You can always consider replacing your current system if your energy bills keep increasing- the long-term benefits of a new system far outweighs the short-term cost of a new HVAC system.
Q. What is a Heat Pump? What does it Do?
A heat pump is a heating and air conditioning system that works year-round. During warmer months, it works like any run-of-the-mill air conditioner, while during the winter, it collects heat from outdoor air and transfers it inside the home.Believe it or not, cooler outside air still has heat that can be captured!
On very cold days when there’s not enough heat in the outside air to meet your thermostat setting, you use an electric heater to make up that difference. A heat pump is also very efficient for heating your home- it produces up to three times more heat than the energy it uses.
You can also add a heat pump to an existing gas, propane or oil furnace. The two systems operate when it is most cost effective. They share the heating load, but never function at the same time.
HVAC System Capacity
If you have a question that we don’t answer here, give us a call at (844) 768-5995.
Q. How do you measure the sizing capacities of an HVAC System?
The size of heating and cooling systems is based on B.T.U.H. (British Thermal Units Per Hour). Air Conditioning and Heat Pumps are also rated in tonnage where 12,000 BTUH equals one (1) ton. Most residential systems range from 1 to 5 tons.
Q. How important is it to get the right size of heating and cooling equipment?
The sizing of your HVAC equipment is very important for many reasons. HVAC units that are over capacity don’t run as frequently or as long, which causes poor humidity control, a big swing in temperatures throughout the house, and a noticeable difference when the system turns on and off. It will also use more energy over time.
Undersized equipment won’t be able to keep up with extreme temperature changes, and can run for longer periods of time, causing wear and tear and potential breakdown in a shorter amount of time than a properly sized system.
Q. What is the proper size for my HVAC system?
Each home is different- there’s variables that make the ‘ideal size’ for your home different from your neighbor’s home. One ton of air conditioning can be ideal for anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet depending on how your house is constructed.
To make sure you have the right size system (but not larger than you need) is to get a no-obligation evaluation by a licensed HVAC professional. Our contractors can assess the capacity you need based on the square footage of your home along with your needs and your budget.
Q. Is a system with more capacity better?
A larger heating system can be costly to operate, and might not keep your home warm efficiently, while an air conditioner is at its least efficient when you first turn it on.
Any system with too much capacity will turn on and off repeatedly- and for air conditioners, this is the least efficient way to cool your home. An air conditioner also only removes humidity when it’s running- so if humidity is one of your main issues, a larger, short-cycling system won’t condition your home nearly as well.
HVAC System Maintenance & Upkeep
If you have a question that we don’t answer here, give us a call at (844) 768-5995.
Q. How often should I have my A/C maintenance completed?
For any air conditioning unit, you should plan and budget for an annual inspection and maintenance at a bare minimum. We usually recommend this service right before the warmer parts of the year- spring to early summer is ideal.
A regular maintenance check helps to ensure your system is running at peak efficiency and might help you avoid a catastrophic failure when you need your HVAC system most.
Q. How do I know if my system is working properly?
There’s several tell-tale signs that your HVAC system may have a problem that needs to be serviced. The longer you wait, the worse underlying problems will get. If you notice any of these warning signs, we recommend you schedule a service visit as soon as possible.
- Is your system making strange noises?
- Are you having trouble cooling or heating all areas of your home?
- Have you noticed that it takes longer for your home to cool down or heat up?
- Do you see your utility bills rising for no apparent reason?
These are just the big warning signs- there’s plenty of smaller items that could be a sign that your system is having problems. If you hear or notice any of these issues, be sure to contact a professional HVAC contractor immediately.
Q. Is there anything I should check prior to calling for service?
Before you request an estimate for your HVAC system, be fure that your air conditioner and/or furnace is turned on. Be sure to tell us about any strange noises or smells.
You should also be sure that the breakers and the disconnects are turned, and that your thermostat is set correctly.
Q. What regular maintenance do heating and air conditioning systems need?
Unrestricted air flow is vital for any HVAC system- so it’s one of the things that needs to be taken care of first. Dust, dirt, and debris wreck havoc on any HVAC system, no matter if it’s indoor or outdoor. Keep all filters clean, and be sure that the heat exhangers and coils are free of restrictions.
Most HVAC experts recommend an inspection and preventative maintenance twice a year- preferably in the spring and then again in the fall. You should also change your filter regularly which will eliminate most of the common problems and reduce the chance of a complete system breakdown.
Q. How often should I replace my filters?
For most systems, we recommend that you replace disposable filters at least once a month- or, if they’re washable filters, clean them once a month.
When you system is installed, you should receive a recommended replacement schedule to keep your system running efficiently. If this seems extreme, at least visually check filters and filtering equipment monthly. If your filters look dirty, clean or replace them.
Q. Why do I need to change my filter regularly?
Replacing your filter on a regular basis ensure that your HVAC system is running at peak efficiency. It also helps to improve the air quality in your home. Change your filters regularly to ensure proper air flow and to help minimize the collection of dust, allergens and germs.
Some systems may require weekly or monthly filter replacements- but let the experts that install your system recommend the ideal filters and replacement schedules for your unit(s).
Q. In addition to changing my filters, what maintenance should I do on my heater and/or air conditioner?
Although we recommend that virtually all maintenance for your heating or cooling system be completed by the professionals, here are some things to help make sure that your HVAC system is running efficiently:
- If you have a ground-mounted outdoor unit, be sure to keep it clear- remove clutter, weeds and other items that restrict airflow, which could end up in costly repairs.
- Watch your landscaping habits- weed trimmers and lawn mowers could damage the control wiring of your HVAC unit.
- Try and keep your dogs, cats and other critters away from the unit- pet urine can cause more damage than you think.
Q. Why does my heat pump system freeze up?
There are several factors that can lead to your heat pump freezing up.
- If you’re running in the cooling mode, check for air flow restrictions. This is usually caused by filters or debris.
- Next, your system could be literally iced over. Turn off the air and run the fan, or turn on the heat until the ice has melted.
If you take these steps and the problem happens again, it’s time to let the professionals take a look at your system. Schedule a service call so a qualified technician can check your refrigerant level, clean the evaporator coil, check the blower speed, and check for any intermittent blower operation.
They can also do an audit that might uncover any other things that make your system prone to freezing and recommend the best course of action.
Q. How do I know whether my heating and cooling equipment needs replacement or just repair?
If you’re asking this question, it’s usually time to get a new system- however, if the unit isn’t that old, or a new system just might not be in the budget right now, here’s some factors to consider before your end up replacing the unit:
- How old is your current system? If you have a system that’s 10 years or older, you’re not only going to have more frequent repairs- you also have a system that’s far less energy efficient than a new system.
- How does your current system perform? There can be a big gap in what a contractor installs and what your expectations are for your own comfort level. If it under-performs, you might want to upgrade your system.
- How much will the repairs cost- and how many more repairs might be necessary in the future? Sometimes, it just makes more sense to let your older system retire and get something new. If you have more service calls several times a year, Is keeping that older system operational worth the time, money and inconveniences?
There’s also a general guideline to how long your system should last- once you’re past that span, your repair costs could increase exponentially every year. Here’s the approximate lifetime for the most common heating and cooling units-keep in mind that these are just guidelines.:
- Air Conditioner: 12-15 yrs.
- Furnace: 15-20 yrs.
- Boiler: 15-20 yrs.
If you do regular maintenance and replace worn-out parts, there’s a chance that your heater or a/c unit will last longer. If you have a HVAC system that needs to be repaired repeatedly- or ends up running excessively- you might need to replace it sooner rather than later. Repairs to an old or inefficient system prolongs the inevitable- and increases the chances of emergency service calls, damage to your home, or further damage to other parts of your HVAC system.
Repairing your system will only bring your systems’ performance to the previous level- not only are you at the same comfort level as before, you haven’t increased the efficiency enough to save on your energy bills.
When you get into major repairs there are some replacement systems can cost less than the cost of repeated repairs- and they’ll help pay for themselves in energy savings faster than you might think.
note: If you’re considering replacing a heater or air conditioner, it’s recommended that you replace both units at the same time. You’ll save on maintenance costs and installation costs, and you’ll recover your money with energy savings in a relatively short amount of time
Q. When should I replace my existing heating and/or air conditioning unit system?
All systems and units are different. Here are some rough lifespan guidelines to help you decide whether fixing or replacing is the right decision:
- Average Lifetime of an Air Conditioner: 12-15 yrs.
- Average Lifetime of a Furnace: 15-20 yrs.
- Average Lifetime of a Boiler: 15-20 yrs.
Keep in mind that these are just guidelines. Some units last longer than that with regular maintenance and replacement of parts. But if a unit has been repaired repeatedly, or has been run excessively, it might make more sense to replace it even sooner. Paying for repairs to an old or inefficient system often simply prolongs the inevitable. An older system that breaks down once is likely to break down again…and again. That means more emergency service calls or, worse yet, the risk of damage to your home or to other components of your heating and cooling system.
There’s also an ongoing cost factor to consider. Restoring your old system will only bring it back to its current level of energy efficiency. After you’ve recovered from the repair bills and the frustration of system breakdowns, you still won’t save on your energy bills.
Some replacement systems can cost less than the cost of repeated repairs. And in many cases, installing a new heating and cooling system can actually pay for itself in energy savings within a relatively short time.
Note: If you’re replacing your heater or a/c, our professionals recommend that you consider replacing both units at the same time. You save on installation and maintenance costs, increase efficiency, and reduce your energy output significantly year-round.
If you have a question that we don’t answer here, give us a call at (844) 768-5995.
Q. How is the efficiency of heating and cooling equipment measured?
Efficiency Ratings are the way you can tell how a furnace, heat pump or air conditioning unit uses its fuel. The most-frequently used efficiency ratings include:
SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio):
This ratio tells you the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity- it usually ranges between 13 and 17. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the system will be- which reduces operating costs over the long-term.
HSPF (Heating Seasonal Performance Factor):
Similar to SEER, HSPF it is how efficient the heating portion of a heat pump is. HSPF ratings range from 6.8 to 10, and high-efficiency units have a rating of 7.5 HSPF (or higher).
AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency ratio):
This is a measurement of the percent of heat produced for every dollar of fuel consumed for a furnace. The higher the AFUE rating, the lower the fuel costs.
All furnaces manufactured today must meet at least 78% AFUE, while furnaces 10 to 15 years or older might be below the minimum. 78% to 80% is considered mid-efficiency; above 90% is considered high-efficiency.
MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value):
MERV is a filter rating system relating to the size of the holes in the filter that allow air to pass through. The higher the MERV rating is, the smaller the holes are in the filter, which increases efficiency and the ability to capture contaminants. MERV ratings range from a low of 1 to a high of 16.
This is an Environmental Protection Agency designation that is attached to HVAC products that meet or exceed guidelines for high-efficiency performance that’s above the standard government minimums.
Q. How can I increase the efficiency and life of my home’s heating and cooling systems?
Here’s a few tips to make sure your HVAC systems are running at maximum efficiency:
- Clean and replace your filters frequently.
- Your system heats and cools more evenly when the blower is in the “on” position. A blower provides better filtration and constant air movement throughout your home.
- Use other methods to help reduce room temperatures that don’t involve running your system- install shades, drapes, shutters, or screens on windows or sliding glass doors that are exposed to extreme sunlight.
Q. Should I close the registers and doors to areas of the home that I do not use on a regular basis?
Every HVAC system is designed to cool or heat a certain number of square feet. Closing registers and doors in certain rooms disrupts and decreases airflow and efficiency, causing your system to work harder to cool less space. This causes it to cycle more and become even less efficient.
Q. How long should my air conditioning system run in a cycle?
Unfortunately, this isn’t an exact science. On average, air conditioners should be sized appropriately so that they can remove heat from your home as fast as it comes in.
If it’s extremely hot outside, your a/c should be able to keep up with the heat, but not gain on it enough to turn off. The cooler the temperature, the more your system will cycle- but it’s all dependent on individual homes and the condition of your HVAC equipment.
Q. Should I try to keep my air conditioning system from running too much?
Generally speaking, a unit that is either on or off is less expensive than one that keeps cycling on and off repeatedly. Every time your system starts up, it uses a lot of electricity and doesn’t produce much additional cooling benefit.
A smaller system is often more economical to operate: even though it seems to run nonstop and might not cool as well, it consumes less power than a larger system that cycles on and off.
Q. What air temperature should my air conditioner produce?
The air produced by your a/c should be 15°-20° below what enters the system. So if the entering return air is 80°, the exiting supply air should be about 60°-65° , but that depends on if :
- The a/c system is operating properly
- The system has been running at least 15 minutes on a warm, dry day
- Your home that is about 80° inside.
On a milder day, with an indoor temperature 75°, the air coming out should be 55°-60°.
Q. What are the advantages of a programmable thermostat?
Programmable thermostats are more accurate and efficient than mercury thermostats. They also allow you to automatically control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat.
There’s even more sophisticated thermostats on the market today- wi-fi enabled thermostats optimize the heating and cooling of your home by learning your schedule, what temperature you’re used to, and when you want your home to be that temperature.
Q. During the winter, my heat pump delivers warm air but not hot air, and will operate for long periods of time. Is that normal?
Yes, this is normal.
A heat pump produces air that is around 80° to provide even comfortable, heating around the house – it shouldn’t be a blast of intense heat. 80° may feel cool to your hand, which is usually closer to 90°.
Q. During the heating season, my heat pump makes a “whooshing” sound and I feel cool air coming from the supply registers. Is that normal?
This is something that’s normal in cold winter months. Frost accumulates on the outdoor coil, which causes the heat pump to go into a defrost cycle. This usually lasts anywhere from 1-10 minutes, depending on how much ice is on the coil.
The cool air is temporary, and the system will return to the heating mode once the ice is gone.
Q. What are causes of cracks in a heat exchanger?
Cracks in the heat exchanger are usually caused by natural heating and cooling cycles of a furnace. If a furnace is overworked or stressed, there’s a greater chance of a breakdown and carbon monoxide leak.
Dirty air filters, blocked vents, and burners that are not firing properly (which disrupts the combustion process) can contribute to stress that may lead to cracks in a heat exchanger.
Q. What are the potential dangers of operating your HVAC system with a cracked heat exchanger?
Cracks in your heat excanger can allow carbon monoxide to be released in your home.
Carbon Monoxide limits the body’s ability to take in oxygencauses dizziness, light-headedness, flu-like symptoms, and even death by asphyxiation. Since it’s difficult to detect and usually gradual, Carbon Monoxide Poisoning is extremely dangerous.
Q. What does HVAC stand for?
HVAC is the acronym Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.
The goal of HVAC design is to balance indoor environmental comfort with other factors such as installation cost, ease of maintenance, and energy efficiency.
Q. What is a Condenser?
The condenser is the hot side of an air conditioner or heat pump. Condensers are heat exchangers, and can transfer heat to air or to an intermediate fluid to carry heat to the ground, a body of water, or air.
Q. What is a Heating Coil?
- A heating coil is the part of the system that conducts heat. It allows electricity to act as fire.
Q. What is a Heat Pump?
- A heat pump is a compressor that cycles hot or cold air. It is a device that is designed to move thermal energy in the opposite direction of heat flow by absorbing heat from a cold space which is released to a warmer space.
Q. What is a Compressor?
- A compressor is the part of an outdoor air conditioner or heat pump that compresses and pumps refrigerant to meet household cooling requirements.
Q. What is a Split System?
- A split system is a heating and cooling system that includes an indoor unit, outdoor unit and a thermostat.
Q. What is variable speed equipment? Is it better or necessary?
Variable speed in regards to HVAC refers to a furnace’s or air handler’s indoor blower motor. There are different speeds that control the flow of air throughout your home. Variable speed blowers will change speeds to meet different airflow needs of the heating and cooling cycles.
Variable speed motors can use significantly less energy and can be used to effectively control different zones of your home, clean the air, and control humidity.
Q. What is Two-Stage Heating?
In two-stage heating, a furnace has two levels of heat output:
- High for cold winter days
- Low for milder days
Two-stage furnaces don’t have a sudden blast of air- since it has 2 stages, it doesn’t reach full capacity all at once. The low setting meets household heating requirements 80% of the time, allowing it to run for longer periods of time and provide even distribution of heated air. Because the furnace operates mostly in its lower-capacity first stage, it burns less fuel than a furnace that always runs at full capacity and then has to shut off when the heating demand has been met.
Q. What is I.A.Q.?
I.A.Q. stands for Indoor Air Quality. There are several products available as an add-on to existing HVAC systems to mprove the quality of the air inside your home.
Some of these items include:
- Electronic or Media Air Filters: Filtering the air within your home helps eliminate smoke, pollen, odor, dust mites and allergens.
- Whole-House Humidifiers: Whole-house humidifiers provide consistent humidity levels throughout the home, and some can even adjust humidity levels automatically. The recommended humidity level in the winter for a home should be around 35% and 45%- the average heated home has a humidity level of less than 20%.
- Air-to-Air Heat-Recovery Ventilators: Ventilator systems help remove stale air from inside the home and brings in warmed fresh air from the outside.
Q. What is the primary function of a heat exchanger?
A heat exchanger separates the warm air that is circulated through your home from poisonous carbon monoxide gas created during the combustion process when you operate your furnace.
Q. What are the Most Common Abbreviations for HVAC Systems?
Here’s a comprehensive list of the HVAC acronyms and HVAC abbreviations that are seen regularly- if you have any additional questions about these items and what they mean, give our experts a call at (844) 769-5995
|Acronym||What it stands for …|
|ACH||Air Changes per Hour|
|ACM||Asbestos Containing Material|
|AEE||Association of Energy Engineers|
|AFD||Adjustable Frequency Drive|
|AFUE||Annual Fuel Efficiency Ratio|
|AHU||Air Handling Unit|
|BAS||Building Automation System|
|BTU||British Thermal Unit|
|BTUH||Brtish Thermal Units / Hour|
|CAV||Constant Air Volume|
|CDD||Cooling Degree Days|
|CEM||Certified Energy Manager|
|CFM||Cubic Feet per Minute|
|CHWP||Chilled Water Pump|
|CHWR||Chilled Water Return|
|CHWRT||Chilled Water Return Temperature|
|CHWS||Chilled Water Supply|
|CHWST||Chilled Water Supply Temperature|
|CLF||Cooling Load Factor|
|CLTD||Cooling Load Temperature Difference|
|COP||Coefficient Of Performance|
|CRAC||Computer Room Air Conditioner|
|CVRMSE||Coefficient of Variation of the Root Mean Square of the Error|
|CWP||Condenser Water Pump|
|CWR||Condenser Water Return|
|CWRT||Condenser Water Return Temperature|
|CWS||Condenser Water Supply|
|CWST||Condenser Water Supply Temperature|
|DCV||Demand Controlled Ventilation|
|DDC||Direct Digital Control|
|EAT||Entering Air Temperature|
|ECM||Electronically Commutated Motor|
|ECM||Energy Conservation Measure|
|ECO||Energy Conservation Opportunity|
|EDH||Electric Duct Heater|
|EEM||Energy Efficiency Measure|
|EER||Energy Efficiency Ratio|
|EMS||Energy Management System|
|ESCO||Energy Service Company|
|EUH||Electric Unit Heater|
|EWT||Entering Water Temperature|
|FCU||Fan Coil Unit|
|FIM||Facility Improvement Measure|
|FLA||Full Load Amps|
|FMS||Facility Management System|
|FPM||Feet Per Minute|
|GPM||Gallons Per Minute|
|GUI||Graphical User Interface|
|HDD||Heating Degree Days|
|HEPA||High Efficiency Particulate Arresting|
|HHV||Higher Heating Value|
|HHWP||Heating Hot Water Pump|
|HHWR||Heating Hot Water Return|
|HHWS||Heating Hot Water Supply|
|HPS||High Pressure Steam|
|HRU||Heat Recovery Unit|
|HRV||Heat Recovery Ventilator|
|HSPF||Heating Seasonal Performance Factor|
|HVAC||Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning|
|HWP||Hot Water Pump|
|HWR||Hot Water Return|
|HWS||Hot Water Supply|
|HWRT||Hot Water Return Temperature|
|HWST||Hot Water Supply Temperature|
|IAQ||Indoor Air Quality|
|IPMVP||International Performance Measurement and Verification Protocol|
|LAT||Leaving Air Temperature|
|LHV||Lower Heating Value|
|LPS||Low Pressure Steam|
|LRA||Locked Rotor Amps|
|LWBT||Leaving Wet Bulb Temperature|
|LWT||Leaving Water Temperature|
|M&V||Measurement and Verification|
|MAT||Mixed Air Temperature|
|MCC||Motor Control Center|
|MUA||Make-up Air Unit|
|MX||Metrix Utility Accounting System|
|NEMA||National Electrical Manufacturers Association|
|NPSH||Net Positive Suction Head|
|OAP||Outside Air Percentage|
|OAT||Outside Air Temperature|
|ODP||Open Drip Proof|
|OWS||Operator Work Station|
|PID||Proportional Integral Derivative|
|PRV||Pressure Relief Valve|
|PRV||Pressure Reducing Valve|
|PTAC||Packaged Terminal Air Conditioner|
|RPM||Revolutions Per Minute|
|RTD||Resistance Temperature Detector|
|RTU||Roof Top Unit|
|SAT||Supply Air Temperature|
|SEER||Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio|
|SHFG||Solar Heat Gain Factor|
|SHR||Sensible Heat Ratio|
|SWP||Steam Working Pressure|
|TEV||Thermostatic Expansion Valve|
|TOD||Time Of Day|
|TORR||Millimeter of Mercury (mmHg)|
|TXV||Thermostatic Expansion Valve|
|VAV||Variable Air Volume|
|VFD||Variable Frequency Drive|
|VSD||Variable Speed Drive|
|VSP||Variable Speed Pump(ing)|
|YTD||Year To Date|
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